FAQs

Our wood of choice is Eastern White Pine (EWP). We use only the “heartwood”, the best part of the log. Pine is extremely stable and versatile. It has a small shrinkage factor compared to any other hardwood or softwood; in fact, radial shrinkage is two and half times less than white oak! Our timbers are milled to our specifications to contain the center of the tree from end to end (“boxed heart”), have straight grain and minimal knot size and frequency. EWP is reasonably abundant, making it cost effective, and it can be stained a variety of colors to enhance your decor. A natural pine frame will darken over time to a light golden brown hue, while painting or staining in the future is always an option. We apply a clear penetrating sealer and no other maintenance is required.

On rare occasions we will use another species of wood for certain beams, such as Douglas Fir, Eastern Hemlock, or Glu-Lam, when structurally required. These are determined on a case by case basis, and are used only when needed. We have worked with, and depending on the circumstances, are willing to work with many species of wood, including recycled timbers from old mills, but pine remains our first choice.

Our joinery method– The spline, or free tenon, system is derived from joinery used in wooden ship building. Traditional timber joinery requires large 8 inch or larger posts, when 6 inch posts are more than adequate to carry the loads. These larger posts not only require up to 75% more wood, but their size often overpowers the interior space. Another limitation is the difficulty of bringing more than 2 beams together on a post at the same level. The spline or free tenon system that we developed solves both of these problems and also makes assembly of the timber frame much simpler since bents do not need to be preassembled on the ground and lifted into place with large cranes. Many other timber framers are now adapting to this system of joinery.

We use rafters for our roof system where some other companies use purlins. Generally purlins can’t be spaced symmetrically, so they look unbalanced. Rafters also make the roof frame construction and panel installation much easier. In special circumstances we have built purlin framed roofs, however our preference is the more efficient and less costly common rafter system.

We “draw-bore” our frame – Draw boring eliminates the need to pull the frame together with multiple straps and come-alongs. The timbers are pulled tightly toward plumb and square with much less effort while increasing the stiffness of the frame

We erect many of our frames ourselves – The same craftsmen that cut your frame also erect multiple frames a year, providing immediate feedback on the quality of our shop work and the ease of the frame raising.  Whether we erect the frame or cut a kit for you, you benefit from our experiences raising hundreds of frames, as we apply what we have learned to make our frames go together quickly and easily.

We maintain a large timber inventory – We carry thousands of board feet of timber instead of just ordering what we need for your frame. This gives us the ability to quickly replace a piece that might be flawed, damaged, or on rare occasions: cut wrong!  We replace flawed pieces quickly with our onsite inventory avoiding the temptation to “make do” or delay progress waiting for a new timber from the saw mill.

We have over four decades of experience – We have been improving our product for almost 50 years now.  For example the use of spline joinery is common today and our SIP panel wire chase detail is now employed by multiple panel manufacturers across the country. There are “copycats” out there that duplicated our process years ago, but they have languished rather than adapting and improving their methods like we have.  Perhaps most importantly, we treat our craftsmen well and turnover is rare; our framers use their average of 25 years’ experience each to produce high quality frames quickly, providing you the best “bang for the buck”!

We are your guides to the realization of your dream! Our design services, online video tutorials, building guide, Owner’s Manual and willingness to answer all your questions helps you make your way through the thousands of little decisions you need to make to turn your dream plan into reality while staying on budget.

No, we do not have the capacity to do any finishing. Any staining or extra coatings would be done at the jobsite, by others. We find that very few customers ultimately decide to stain the frame, as the pine naturally darkens and “ambers” over time. The exceptions are any exterior timbers, which do require regular treatment with a penetrating sealer to prevent weather damage and decay.

Our standard wall panel is a SIP (Structural Insulated Panel) with an R-23 polyiso (PIR) core. These panels have OSB on both faces and have tremendous structural capacities as well as high R values. They are rugged and resistant to weather conditions encountered during construction. There are several methods of installing these panels depending on your choice of wall and ceiling finish, and we provide details and instruction for the various methods in the Owners’ Manual and in the plans.

Our standard roof panel is similar but uses an R-30 EPS (expanded polystyrene) core, which is similar to a white foam picnic cooler. This material is less expensive than the PIR type insulation, but it requires more thickness for the same R value. This is usually not a problem on roof panels because the roof edges and overhangs can be finished and trimmed in a variety of ways.

We also have several other options available for insulation R value, core material and panel thickness. Our goal, as always, is to provide the best value for our customers, by combining cost effectiveness, visual appeal, and safe, durable materials for a home that will last for generations.

The code requirements for floor, wall, and ceiling insulation R-values are primarily based on fiberglass batt insulation fitted into cavities between wood or steel structural members- studs, joists, rafters. This type of wall or ceiling thermal performance is subject to thermal bridging, voids, gaps, compressed insulation and significant air leakage. As a result, the R-values have been “inflated” to compensate for the inherent inefficiency of this method.

In contrast, SIPs provide a continuous, uniform thermal envelope, minimizing or eliminating thermal bridging caused by structural lumber. Testing conducted by the Oak Ridge National Laboratory proved that SIPs maintain their full R-value in whole wall testing. Code compliance can be confirmed by using the ResCheck program, which is often a requirement for residential building permit applications of all types. We will be happy to provide more information on this subject if you still have questions.

Yes, however it is quite costly. We recommend installing the ceiling / roof boards directly over the timber rafters, and the roof panels are installed over that. We usually supply pre-finished T&G roof boards , but you can purchase unfinished boards and pre-finish them yourself to save money, if you prefer.

Yes absolutely. In fact, a timber frame / SIP home is often easier to add on to than conventional construction. We will work with you during the design process to map out where any future additions might be located, and help choose design elements to facilitate that. An example would be to position windows and exterior doors to allow for a future bedroom wing or garage addition.

Our homes are primarily timber frame and panels, but we will occasionally utilize stick frame, or “2x construction”, for certain elements. Basement walk-outs and knee walls are almost always stick built. Garages, porches, and breezeways or connectors are often stick built. Once in a great while we will utilize stick framing for a roof or wall element, a type of construction known as “hybrid” (part timber frame, part stick built). It all depends on the budget and the requirements of each job. We do not use a “cookie cutter” approach; each job is approached with an open mind and the best interests of the customer in mind.

Early on in the estimating process, we will use some cost per square foot terms in order to qualify you and to help you determine you budget. But the actual cost of the timber frame and panel package is based entirely on the cost of each timber and panel. As such there are variations in cost per square foot because more timbers = more cost. It is always more economical to build “up” rather than “out” as the greatest cost of a timber frame home is the roof structure. Some larger structures require multiple roof beams and supports; dormers and valleys also increase cost. We will always be upfront about potential cost impacts, and we will always provide a written quote after the timber frame has been designed and priced.

As before, early in the estimating process, we will use some cost per square foot terms to qualify you and to help you determine you budget. We might tell you to expect to spend $275 per square feet of living space to complete the entire project. But we know that you can’t realistically estimate the cost of a home by the square foot. The reality is that design choices, house volume, number of floors, useable basement living space, and hundreds of other factors go into the cost of a new building. Your contractor, subcontractors, and suppliers are all interested in giving you the best price they can to win your business without losing theirs. We are all in this together trying to provide the house you have dreamed of as close to your budget as possible.

To help guide you through the many decisions you will face throughout the design and building process, we have written our Owner’s Manual. Whether you plan to contract out the work, be your own general contractor, or do all of the work yourself, this manual will explain and specify details and various tasks from locating your house on the lot to the last finishing detail of trim or carpet. Our hope is that this manual will help eliminate those unplanned items that can cause misunderstandings, changes, and cost overruns. Included in the manual are specification sheets, estimation forms, architectural details, and contract forms.

We are also good “sounding boards” for your concerns and can compare your numbers with other projects we have been involved in to see if you are coming in at par. Remember that we approach your project as a team effort- we’re all in it for success.

Sorry, no. We have a nice arrangement with the bank- they don’t cut frames and we don’t lend money!☺

Seriously, how you finance your project is between you, your lending institution and your financial advisor. A construction loan will often require an experienced general contractor to be in charge of the project. If you are getting a construction loan, we will work with your contractor and bank to provide documentation and payment schedules.

We don’t have a model home or a showroom. We are a small company in a small shop and modest business office. We don’t currently have the space or the staff for a model home or showroom. You can check out our Galleries for photos of recent projects, and there are some interviews and customer stories as well. To put all this in a positive light, we don’t have a marketing or advertising budget and the associated overhead. We are a very simple and efficient operation, working one-on-one with our customers to design and build their home or barn. This allows us to pass the resulting savings on to our customers. As perhaps the oldest timber frame company in the nation (we have been doing this for well over 40 years) we must be doing it right!

Being a small company, we don’t have a catalog of plans or a glossy brochure to send out; we prefer to concentrate on working one-on-one with customers to help them design and build their dream home. Some of our most popular plans are shown on our web site and are also available as DIY kits. But that is not all that we offer, by any means. Our primary business for over 40 years has been designing and building custom timber frame homes and barns, and we have hundreds of previous designs that we draw from for additional ideas and inspiration.

We understand that most people begin their new home research by looking for floor plans, hoping to find the “perfect” plan for their dream home. While we do have many pre-designed plans on our web site, we prefer to take a different approach. Rather than forcing you to accept a pre-determined plan layout, we prefer to work with you as a collaborative team. One of the really great features of timber frame design is the almost unlimited freedom to design the floor plan any way you want. There are no load bearing walls or other restrictions- other than usually 2 or 3 very necessary posts! This design freedom is very important to crafting a home that perfectly fits your building site and your lifestyle.

Sorry, no. Our timber frames use a specific type of joinery called “floating tenon” or “spline” joinery. Our frames are constructed of precision-milled Eastern White Pine, custom cut for us from some of the highest-grade logs available. We cut and mortise the timbers with our custom-built milling machine (the first in the industry!). Finally, our expert craftsmen finish each piece by hand, matching each cut to its adjoining beam, dressing the edges, and planing and sanding as needed until the desired finish is achieved.

The point is that we don’t use conventional or standard timber frame joinery, therefore our plans would not be of much use to someone looking to cut their own frame. There are many great books on the subject, many of them written by Tedd Benson, who – along with Phil Brooks – helped start the modern timber frame movement.

We are frequently asked by customers if they can supply their own logs or timbers from their property. We always advise against it, because of the requirement for a specific grade of log outlined above. We do suggest that they mill their logs into boards for joists, decking, and sheathing or shiplap siding, which is a great way to use the “free” wood on the property.

We use structural insulated panels (SIP’s) on the exterior walls. These panels have a rigid foam core with no gaps or cavities for plumbing or ductwork. All plumbing pipes and HVAC ducts are located in the interior walls. We carefully plan and design the interior layouts to include all necessary chases and clearances for plumbing, ductwork and other mechanical equipment.

We have designed an external wire chase into our timber frames, an intentional gap around the perimeter of the frame to allow wires to be run to any required outlets and switch locations in the exterior SIP panels. This wire chase is covered by baseboard trim. Switch boxes for exterior doors can be wired within the SIP panel before the wood blocking is installed in the rough opening.

Light fixtures and ceiling fans can be installed in the timber frame itself, in fact almost every frame we erect has several fixtures hanging from the beams. The wiring must be installed as the frame is erected, and careful planning is required. Whether you are building a kit or having us build it for you, we will use our extensive experience and knowledge to guide you through the process.
We have been designing and building timber frame homes and barns for over 40 years, and we know what works (and what doesn’t). We have the know-how and experience to guide you through the process.

Planning is the key to a successful wiring job! A very common fixture is a ceiling fan hung from the main ridge beam over the great room. Other common fixture locations are light fixtures above the dining table, and ceiling fixtures hung to illuminate the stairway. All of these locations should be mapped out in advance and coordinated with your electrician. An electrical plan is very helpful to plan out all fixture locations and where the wires will run. Your electrician will need to run some of these wires prior to installing the wall and roof panels, so you need to determine not only where the fixtures are located, but also how the wires are run and where they will terminate. If you are installing a tongue and groove deck on your floor joists, you will need to install wiring for lights or fans that will be in the ceiling below. A groove or slot will need to be cut in the top of the joists and beams to route the wire from the fixture location to the switch location. Wires can also be run to the outside wall along the perimeter decking wire chase, and then down an outside corner wall post to the basement and a junction box. SIP panels will cover the wire on the outside of the post. It is much easier to cut the wire channel before installing the timbers, on the floor or on sawhorses. Only shallow recessed fixture boxes should be installed in the bottom or side of a beam. The recesses for these boxes are more easily made before the wire is run, and even easier before the timbers are installed. We can drill the holes for the wires and junction boxes, and cut the channels in the timbers, when we cut your frame, but we need know in advance and the locations must be marked on the plans. This can also be done on site, of course, but it is more costly and time consuming.

We can supply “Light Blocks” for locations which fall between joists or rafters. These are supplied loose and a few inches over size. They are to be cut to length and installed on site. They are pre-drilled for a fixture box, and have a groove cut into the top side for a wire. They are a perfect fit for hanging lights or fans with standard size canopies. We can supply similar blocks or bars with a beveled top surface for installation on a sloped ceiling between rafters. You should let us know in advance how many of each type you will need, so we can include the correct number with your frame.

In certain circumstances you may elect to choose a fixture that is wired through a “swag” or chain that allows you to relocate the light fixture. A common choice over a dining room table, as it is likely that your table may be replaced or moved over time to accommodate lifestyle changes such as a growing family or a recently emptied nest.

At Brooks Post & Beam, we’ve designed and built woodsy cabins and grand statement homes, waterfront getaways and long-planned forever homes. We take the word “custom” seriously — it’s your dream we want to make reality. With a custom home design, you can accommodate your need for space and the requirements of your particular home site, and we’ll even help you plan spaces to allow for specific furniture you want to have in your new home. Your unique lifestyle helps feed the creative process.

Standard Plan Modifications:

We would be happy to modify any of our Standard Plans to your specifications. We can change the interior layout and floor plan, we can move windows and exterior doors, and we can configure the foundation and basement plans to suit your needs – for a drive-under garage, or a finished basement for example. We consider any plan changes that do not require structural changes to the timber frame, to be a Standard Plan “modification”. We will be happy to discuss your ideas and work with you to make the plan “your own”. The added cost to make these types of modifications is usually a fraction of the cost of starting from scratch with a custom design, and we can usually apply the basic design fee towards the purchase price of the timber frame.

“Semi-Custom” Plan Modifications:

This is a sort of middle ground between simpler modifications to a Standard Plan, and a full Custom Plan. This involves more significant changes to a Standard Plan, such as adding length, width, or height; changing a gable frame to provide for a centered bank of windows; or adding dormers. While this type of work is a type of Custom Design, it is usually a shorter path to the finish line because we are not starting completely from scratch.

Custom Plan Design:

We are certainly willing and able to put pencil to paper and work with you on a Custom Design. However, while we can start “from scratch” on your custom plan, it is often not necessary. We have been designing and building custom timber frame homes for over 40 years, and we have hundreds of plans in our files, for homes of all sizes. It is not unusual for the customer to describe to us what they want, and then we can pull out a very similar plan to use as a starting point, or as the “seed” of a new design. We are the guides to the realization of your dreams!

Barns are where timber frame architecture first showed its usefulness. Whether you need to divide your barn into many stalls for livestock, or leave it open to store heavy equipment, antique cars, or an in-law apartment or rental apartment, a timber frame barn can deliver — beautifully!

Standard Plan Modification:

We would be happy to modify any of our Standard Plans to your specifications. We can change the interior layout and floor plan, we can move windows and exterior doors, and we can configure the foundation plan to suit your needs. We consider any plan changes that do not require structural changes to the timber frame, to be a Standard Plan “modification”. We will be happy to discuss your ideas and work with you to make the plan “your own”. The added cost to make these types of modifications is usually a fraction of the cost of starting from scratch with a custom design, and we can usually apply the basic design fee towards the purchase price of the timber frame.

“Semi-Custom” Plan Modifications:

This is a sort of middle ground between simpler modifications to a Standard Plan, and a full Custom Plan. This involves more significant changes to a Standard Plan, such as adding length, width, or height; changing a gable frame to provide for a centered door; or adding dormers. While this type of work is a type of Custom Design, it is usually a shorter path to the finish line because we are not starting completely from scratch.

Custom Plan Design:

We are certainly willing and able to put pencil to paper and work with you on a Custom Design. However, while we can start “from scratch” on your custom plan, it is often not necessary. We have been designing and building custom timber frame barns for over 40 years, and we have dozens of plans in our files, for barns of all sizes. It is not unusual for the customer to describe to us what they want, and then we can pull out a very similar plan to use as a starting point, or as the “seed” of a new design.

Working Drawings: A complete set of building plans is provided, including floor plans, foundation plan, elevations, sections and all necessary details, including a 1st floor framing plan. We will provide engineer stamped plans when required by your local authority.

Owner’s Building Manual: Whether you plan to contract out the work, be your own general contractor, or do it all yourself, this manual will explain and specify details and various tasks, from locating your house on the lot to the last finishing detail of trim. We also provide a separate construction manuals and videos specifically for erecting the timber frame and panels.

Timber Frame Kit: The frame is made from select Eastern White Pine timbers. Home and pavilion timbers are usually smooth planed, with chamfered edges. Barn and garage timbers are mostly rough sawn with square edges. Each kit typically includes 6×6 posts, 6×10 ties, 6×12 beams, 6×8 joists, and 6×8 or 6×10 rafters. You can choose curved or straight corner braces (4×6 knee braces, mortised into beams). The frame is fully pre-cut and numbered for easy assembly. Peg holes are pre-drilled, and the drawbore method ensures a snug fit without having to use straps and come-alongs.

SIP Panel Kit: Our standard panel package includes 4-1/2” wall panels (structural panels, whole wall R-23); 8-1/4” roof panels (structural panels, whole wall R-30); and installation materials- high expanding foam sealant, reusable foam gun, panel mastic, SIP screws and plywood splines. All panels are pre-cut and routed. Includes complete panel layout drawings.

Loft Decking and Roof Boards: If you choose plank flooring for the 2nd floor, we supply 2×6 tongue & groove decking for you to cut and install on site. We can also supply pre-finished v-match pine “roof boards” for the vaulted ceilings. Barns, garages and outdoor structures will use the same 2×6 T&G decking for the roof decking as well as the loft.

Tool Kit: We supply a tool kit with all the specialty items you will need to assemble our frames. The tool kits also contains the pegs and timber screws needed to fasten the timbers.

No. We only supply the timber frame, SIP panels, loft decking and roof boards. You are responsible for supplying everything else; all other lumber and millwork. We can help you choose the other materials you will need to finish the project and give you advice and technical information on the best practices for installation and finishes.

First, choose one of our pre-designed home plans, or modify an existing plan for a reasonable additional fee. We will give you a complete estimate for the timber frame kit and panel package, including delivery to your job site. We will discuss with you the payment schedule and terms. The next step is to get you set up with the plans for your project. For a standard plan, the cost of the plans is deducted from your package price, so there will be no hidden charges later. We will provide you with a complete set of building plans, including floor plans, foundation plan, elevations, sections and all necessary details, including a 1st floor framing plan. We can provide engineer stamped plans if required by your local authority. You can get your building permits and move ahead with site work and foundation.

Meanwhile, we will cut the frame and get the panels fabricated. When you are ready, we will have the package delivered to your building site. We will contact the trucking company and set up the delivery. The shipping fee is paid by the customer upon delivery, and the customer is responsible for all unloading and storage on site. The process steps are covered in greater detail on or “Process and Policies” page.

The package comes with complete timber frame and panel assembly plans, along with step-by-step instructions, and expert advice from our support team. Everything is pre-cut and numbered for easy and accurate assembly. Once the panels are complete, you can install the roofing, windows and doors. Before you know it, you will have a completely enclosed (and completely insulated!) weather tight shell. Frame the interior walls and call in the trades!

No, absolutely not. The timber frame and panels are all precut and numbered for easy installation. The frame and panel handbook has step by step instructions and pictures, and we have many videos showing the step-by-step build process. Any competent carpenter will have no trouble at all with our frame package. In fact, we can say without exception, that every carpenter or contractor that has ever put one of our frames together has enjoyed it, and wants to do it again!

We have also worked with a number of DIY homeowners who have building experience, or who hire a carpenter to act as a guide and advisor for the construction project. If you have questions about whether a kit project is right for you, just give us a call and we’ll help you decide.

There are no special foundation requirements, other than some anchoring and fastening details. It is important that the provided foundation plans are followed exactly without deviation, because the frame posts do require certain specific anchors and tie-downs. But this is all spelled out for you and your contractor on the plans, so you should have no problems if you follow the plans.

A walk-out basement is a very common feature in many of our homes and is no problem at all. The walk-out walls are usually 8” or 10” wide, in order to support the timber frame and wall panels. But don’t worry, our plans and Owner’s Manual will have all of the construction details you need to prepare your foundation and build your basement walls in preparation for the frame.

Yes, you can build on a slab, over a crawl space, full basement or even off the ground on posts & piers. You can utilize poured concrete, modular concrete block or ICF (insulated concrete forms). Just let us know in advance which method you will use and we’ll provide the correct details and dimensions on the plans.

You will need a forklift to unload the frame and panel packages when they are delivered to your site. The trucking company will not unload the material. The best machine for this is an all-terrain forklift with a telescoping boom, commonly called a Lull, with a capacity of at least 4000 pounds. They can be rented at weekly or monthly rates and are very useful for moving lumber and materials around the site. It is also possible to use forks on a bucket loader or backhoe, but only if the ground is very level and stable at the unloading spot, and the machine must be large enough to unload up to 4000 pounds.

It is entirely possible to erect much of the frame by hand, if you have enough manpower and you can get your hands on the appropriate ladders, planks and scaffolding to safely work at necessary wall heights. But we also have some good ideas to make the job go easier.

One method is to use a device called a “Genie Lift” or “Roustabout”, which is a mechanical lifting device on wheels that can be rolled around on the floor and can lift heavy beams up to 15 feet or more above the floor. This equipment is available at most rental stores that cater to contractors, and it is commonly used by HVAC technicians to lift heavy heating units for hanging from ceilings in stores and warehouses. This works well for assembling most of the timber frame. Wall panels can often be raised or “tipped up” by hand with 2 or 3 workers.

There are exceptions, and you may need a crane for hoisting the rafters and the roof panels. You will need crane or some other lifting machine such as a forklift with a telescoping boom (a Lull) to set the roof panels without damage. Happily, rafters and roof panels go up quickly, and rafters and roof panels can almost always be set in a day each.

Yes. Minor plan modifications, such as changing windows, doors, and interior walls, can be done by us for a small design fee. We can also add or modify decks, porches, and walk-out basements. We can even design garages and connectors in some cases. We charge a set hourly rate for all of these extra design services, which are in addition to the kit price. We’re happy to discuss any modifications you may have in mind, just give us a call.

We are happy to discuss your plan ideas with you, and we can decide if your ideas are suitable for the kit format. We are primarily a custom home designer and builder, so we have no problems turning your ideas into reality. However, custom designs will cost more per square foot than our very affordable kit models.

Most of our frames measure 8′-2″ from 1st floor to the top of the 2nd beam (bottom of the decking) as a default. The knee walls are typically between 3’-6” and 4′, which gives an overall exterior wall height of around 12′. The roof slope is usually 10/12, which results in a ridge height of around 14′ to 16’ above the 2nd floor. So the overall height including the thickness of the roof panels is usually between 23 and 25 feet.

We realize that 4 feet doesn’t sound like much for a knee wall height but remember that the roof is very steep and slopes up, which means that you have 6 feet of headroom within 3 feet of the wall, and a vaulted ceiling. It doesn’t feel at all cramped and is plenty high enough for beds and other furniture.

Our standard wall panel is a 4-1/2” R-23 structural panel with OSB sheathing on both faces. On the walls, you would install drywall directly to the timber frame, or else install spacer strips on the frame to create a space for the wall finish material (drywall or T&G paneling).

Our typical roof system consists of 8-1/4” R-30 structural panels with 7-1/4” expanded polystyrene (EPS) insulation core. T&G “roof boards” are installed directly onto the rafters before installing the roof panels. We cover these scenarios and more in our Owner’s Manual, and give further instructions in the construction manuals for erecting the frame and installing the panels.

Yes, panel thicknesses can be increased if desired, at an additional cost of course. See our web site for a complete explanation of SIP R-values and how they differ from “conventional” construction.

We use structural insulated panels (SIP’s) on the exterior walls. These panels have a rigid foam core with no gaps or cavities for plumbing or ductwork. All plumbing pipes and HVAC ducts are located in the interior walls. We carefully plan and design the interior layouts to include all necessary chases and clearances for plumbing, ductwork and other mechanical equipment.

We have designed an external wire chase into our timber frames, an intentional gap around the perimeter of the frame to allow wires to be run to any required outlets and switch locations in the exterior SIP panels. This wire chase is covered by baseboard trim. Switch boxes for exterior doors can be wired within the SIP panel before the wood blocking is installed in the rough opening.

Light fixtures and ceiling fans can be installed in the timber frame itself, in fact almost every frame we erect has several fixtures hanging from the beams. The wiring must be installed as the frame is erected, and careful planning is required. Whether you are building a kit or having us build it for you, we will use our extensive experience and knowledge to guide you through the process.

Yes, there significant differences. SIPs (Structural Insulated Panels) are very efficient insulators. There is very little air leakage and a much reduced rate of thermal conduction. This means that the home will maintain its temperature over a longer period of time than a conventionally built home. As a result, a SIP home is more comfortable and requires less heating and cooling than a similar sized stick-built home, which translates into up-front savings on equipment and long term savings on energy.

Because they are so tight, SIP homes do require mechanical ventilation. An ERV (Energy Recovery Ventilator) system should be installed by a qualified installer. This system will exhaust stale air and indoor pollutants and bring in fresh, clean air automatically, without significant loss of conditioned air.

Any kind of siding and exterior trim can be used with SIPs. Vinyl, fiber cement, SmartSide engineered siding, board and batten, and wood shingles have all been used with great success. Even stucco and synthetic stone products can be installed, with proper substrate preparation. The main requirement for any siding on SIPs, is to have a drainage plane layer to prevent moisture from becoming trapped behind the siding. Let us know what material you plan to use and we’ll make sure you have the information you need for a successful install.

We explain the techniques for interior trim in the Owner’s manual. Baseboard and molding can be nailed directly to the SIP panel. Window and door openings have 2×4’s inserted as nailers, so the trim in those areas is nailed to that blocking. In kitchens, many customers opt to build an interior frame wall or “double wall” in front of the SIP wall, for the ease of installing the additional pipes and wires required in kitchens, as well as for hanging heavy cabinets. With advanced planning, panels can be reinforced to support heavy bookshelves and other heavy hanging objects.

Every potential client we talk with have their own reasons for wanting a timber frame home kit, but the most common are cost savings, the satisfaction of doing it yourself, flexible scheduling, and little or no waste.

Cost Savings: you can save thousands of dollars in labor by building your own home. Some of our customers want the quality and value of a finely crafted timber frame home and can’t afford to pay the high cost that many companies charge for such a project. By donating your own labor and “sweat equity” you will have a beautiful home of the highest quality, but for a fraction of the price that others are charging.

The satisfaction of doing it yourself: We’ve all heard the old saying-“if you want something done right, you’d better do it yourself”. Well, with a timber frame kit home from Brooks Post & Beam, you can do it yourself! There’s nothing in this world quite like the feeling of achievement and pride that comes from living in a home that you built yourself. We can help you realize that dream with an easy to assemble, precision engineered home kit.

Flexible scheduling: with a pre-cut timber frame and panel kit, you can build your own home at your own pace. Only have weekends available? No problem- the frame and panels go together much faster than conventional stick framing, and your home will be enclosed and weather tight in a matter of days rather than weeks. After that you can complete the project at your own pace.

Very little waste: we deliver a completely pre-cut timber frame and panel system to your job site. There are no panel scraps, window cutouts, or other bulk waste to worry about. There will be a small amount of scrap from the 1st and 2nd floor framing, but other than packaging materials there is very little waste generated from a home kit. Compare that to conventional stick framing, which routinely fills up large dumpsters with waste and scraps. Want to leave a small footprint? Consider a timber frame kit.